Words by Ellen Ling. Photography by Mathieu Rainaud, Ruben Faccini.
Innovation is in On’s DNA. The incoming IKON collection represents a new experiment. Designed in collaboration with graphic renegades Bureau Borsche, the collection is something of a script flip – but that’s nothing new for the class of up-and-comers assembling before me.
IKON’s inaugural Class of ‘24 brings future faces together from different corners of culture, their sights set on world firsts, the world stage or world change. In East London, we’re capturing the moment, yearbook style. Just as yearbooks immortalize aspirations, I already know the first of the series will serve as a time capsule of this group’s dreams. Each, in their own right, one to watch. In all the bustle I invite singer/songwriter Tia Alie – AKA Hunnygloss – to sit with me and take a breath.
Based in Manchester, a city with a palpable pride in its musical legacy, Alie writes and records her own music and, as I discover, her own destiny. She attributes her upbringing in a household filled with the sounds of R&B and House – played by her dad, a local DJ – with inspiring her to uncover new genres of music that shaped her as an artist. Behind her sound is an intention; to empower others to explore and express themselves without fear of judgment.
Alie’s approach is eclectic. It’s a common thread that laces together her musical tastes, style and hobbies. Sharing her early influences, like the cult Harajuku magazine, FRUiTs, she follows what moves her, over what’s trending. In truth, Alie doesn’t just dance to the beat of her own drum, she’s created an entirely new genre for herself: Ethereal Hyperpop.
“I coined it myself because my music is a mix of a lot of genres. So I made it into something of my own. I'm quite an alternative artist, going down that route can be quite hard in general, never mind trying to make it in the music industry. It's definitely a hard path I've chosen, but to stay true to myself, I wouldn't change it by trying to do something maybe more mainstream or palatable.”
“Even when it gets hard and even when it feels like there's no point. The biggest point is that it's a dream.”
Referencing influences from Grimes to Manchester’s underground scene, she harks back to simpler dynamics; audience and artist, producer and sound, label and emerging talent. “I want to take it back to when labels wanted to nurture artists from the beginning and help them build up their audience instead of waiting for someone to already have hype.” Alie’s own talent is innate, but her artistry is growing with time. Relatively new to performing live, she’s still discovering the physicality of Hunnygloss and the stage presence she hopes to step into.
“There’s this quote: time will pass anyway. And I really like that because you get stuck in your head thinking oh it's too late, I should have started earlier, I'm not going to be good enough. Well, the years are going to pass anyway, you deserve to try for those opportunities. If I quit, it definitely wouldn't happen. You miss 100 percent of the shots you don't take, so just keep going. Even when it gets hard and even when it feels like there's no point. The biggest point is that it's a dream.”
East London-based, Rabbi Kaninda has walked his way to our location this morning. It’s his favorite way to get about London. Walking locally, he was scouted by casting agents simply passing through his neighborhood. Having never considered a career in the fashion industry, he tells me his future sights are set on running his own label. I ask Kaninda if there’s a saying he lives by.
“Loading…It’s a word everyone around me uses. Processing as a person, you’re developing, learning new things day-to-day. You’re leveling up, you’re loading in life. With age, with time, you could be anything.”
Jordan Djadi, model and occasional musician has a similarly pragmatic approach to life. I ask what he would tell his younger self at the start of his journey.
“Don't rush. Just take your time,” says Djadi. “Figure out what you want to do first and then make your moves. Don't be afraid to mess up, to make mistakes. I'm in a position now where I expect mistakes and it just makes me stronger.”
As a stylist, today isn’t Zakia Ali’s first time on set, maybe not even her fiftieth – but it’s her first time as a model.
I catch her in the moments between both modes. She’s excited, and a little nervous. Stuck into the clothing rails, she thumbs through the different IKON pieces making up the uniform of our yearbook. Ali is self-styled in one of the collection’s tracksuits. I ask why she thinks the tracksuit has spent nearly a century in style. “It’s super simple. It’ll always look good no matter who wears it or how you wear it.” Created with the next generation in mind, IKON’s purpose is ease; this is streetwear for wherever you’re going. First steps, end goals and everything between.
“Don't rush. Just take your time. Figure out what you want to do first and then make your moves.”
Gabriel Chen is going places. Right now, he’s been called over by the photographer. He’s the last to shoot, but the energy he brings visibly transforms the set. It’s an infectious joy. As a filmmaker himself — under the moniker Dà gē — he’s relaxed around the crew and their equipment. As he does his thing in front of the camera, you can see him intently studying the roles of those behind it. Absorbed by the story we’re creating, and not afraid to ask questions of those crafting it. When I sit down with him, it all makes sense; he’s a self-starter. “I didn't train with filmmakers. All of it is self-taught.”
When I ask where he wants to be in the next decade, Chen grimaces. He hates thinking too far ahead, not when, as he puts it, he’s “scrapping and clawing to make it now.” But becoming an auteur isn’t his idea of making it, he’s far more interested in other people’s futures. “For me, the most important thing is to be known for connecting people.”
“There are so many creative, amazing people that are never discovered. Be grateful for the people that help, and pay it forward.”
“I want to be like [Vogue’s former editor-at-large] André Leon Talley,” says Chen. “He just made so many careers.” Aspiring to facilitate the rise of others is a far cry from the spotlight Chen’s generation so often craves. In his chosen medium, he’s discovering a means to a more altruistic end.
“I love filmmaking, but I really like building communities, and I like seeing how different people create different spaces. I want the most talented people, the kindest people, to find the right opportunities. There are so many creative, amazing people that are never discovered. Be grateful for the people that help, and pay it forward.”
